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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning names. Yet, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.